Rachel Roddy’s delicious recipe for pork ragu with herbs, perfect for gnocchi or pasta, is a true culinary delight that embodies the heart of Italian comfort food. Imagine waking up to the enticing aroma of onions, beans, cabbage, and succulent braised meat wafting through the air at 10:30 in the morning. This scene unfolds in the bustling Testaccio market, particularly from kitchen box 37, where chef Leonardo Cioni works his magic. Hailing from San Giovanni Valdarno, located between Florence and Arezzo, Leonardo has been serving up exquisite Tuscan dishes at Sicché Roba Toscana for over three years now. The name itself translates to "therefore Tuscan stuff," hinting at the authentic flavors crafted within these walls.
As patrons gather, they are drawn in by the steam escaping from the kitchen—a natural advertisement for what’s cooking inside. A standout item on the menu is lampredotto, an intriguing delicacy made from the cow's fourth stomach, known for its tender texture. With a visual resemblance to a damp cloth crossed with a flamboyant shirt, this dish is simmered for about an hour and a half in a savory broth of onion, carrot, celery, tomatoes, parsley, and basil, seasoned to perfection and often served in a roll complemented by a bit of salsa verde.
Moreover, every day, Leonardo prepares generous trays of torta di ceci, a chickpea flour pancake similar to farinata, which can be sandwiched in a flatbread called schiaccia. This versatile bread can be filled with an array of salumi or cheeses, making it a delightful snack. While the menu varies daily, it consistently features bean dishes, at least one hearty legume and vegetable soup—often thickened with polenta or bread—along with a long-braised stew or a ragu.
What particularly captured my attention was the vapor emanating from the ragu di capocollo just a couple of months ago. So compelling was the aroma that we, despite being adults, returned an hour and a half later to indulge in a bowl of this rich, savory delight. The ragu was dense and flavorful, adorned with a glistening red hue, served atop small, fluffy potato gnocchi that perfectly complemented its richness.
Capocollo, or pork neck, is a cut from the upper shoulder of the pig, characterized by its generous marbling of fat, which enhances its tenderness and flavor. This marbled meat is crucial for achieving the moistness of the ragu, allowing the robust flavors of bay leaves, sage, and rosemary to infuse beautifully. What sets Leonardo’s rendition apart is his choice to use minced capocollo instead of braising a whole piece of meat and shredding it afterward. This method provides a wonderfully unique texture that I personally find more appealing. Alternatively, if you prefer, you could mix in leaner cuts with some back bacon, but ensure there's still a generous portion of fat for the best results.
Here’s how you can recreate this mouthwatering pork ragu at home:
Pork Ragu with Herbs (Perfect for Gnocchi or Pasta)
Serves 4
- 400g of pork mince, ideally well-marbled (neck, shoulder, or jowl)
- 3-4 tablespoons of olive oil
- 1 medium onion or three shallots, peeled and finely diced
- 2 bay leaves
- 2 sage leaves
- 2 sprigs of rosemary (with one minced and one left whole)
- Salt to taste
- 1 small glass of dry white wine
- 400g tin of crushed plum tomatoes or passed through a food mill
- 1 tablespoon of tomato concentrate
- 500g of potato gnocchi or fresh pappardelle
- Grated parmesan or grana padano for serving
To prepare this delectable ragu, start by heating a heavy-based pan or casserole over medium-low heat. Add the minced pork along with the olive oil, stirring until the meat has completely lost its pink color. Next, introduce the onion, bay leaves, sage, and both minced and whole rosemary, seasoning lightly with salt. Continue to cook and stir until the onion becomes translucent.
Pour in the white wine, allowing it to bubble for a minute or two, then add the tin of tomatoes, the tomato concentrate, another pinch of salt, and a small amount of warm water. Cover the pan partially with a lid and reduce the heat, letting the ragu simmer gently for about two hours. Remember to check and stir occasionally, adding extra warm water if the mixture appears too dry. When finished, the ragu should be thick yet juicy, crowned with a glossy layer of oil.
While the ragu simmers, cook the gnocchi (or pasta) in a pot of boiling water seasoned generously with salt. Once cooked, transfer them to a warm bowl. Toss the gnocchi with a spoonful of finely grated parmesan or grana padano, then mix in half of the ragu, combining everything thoroughly. Serve the mixture across four plates or shallow bowls, topping each with additional ragu and cheese, as desired.
Now, as you savor this dish, reflect on the beauty of simple ingredients transformed into something extraordinary. Do you think traditional recipes like this one hold the key to understanding a culture’s culinary heritage? Or do you believe innovation in cooking can lead to even greater discoveries? Share your thoughts in the comments!
