Versace Appoints Pieter Mulier as Chief Creative Officer
MILAN - A high-profile transition in the fashion industry.
Pieter Mulier, the creative director of Maison Alaïa, is joining Versace, replacing Dario Vitale. The appointment, effective July 1, marks a significant shift in Mulier's career, as he will now report to Versace's executive chairman, Lorenzo Bertelli.
This move comes after WWD first reported on December 4 that Mulier was a leading contender for the role, with Vitale's departure from Versace announced.
On Friday, Alaïa confirmed that Mulier would conclude his tenure as creative director after the summer-fall 2026 show during Paris Fashion Week in March. This decision was made well in advance, with Bertelli recalling brainstorming sessions as far back as autumn 2024.
Bertelli expressed enthusiasm about the collaboration, stating that Mulier was identified as the ideal candidate for the role of Versace's designer. He believes that Mulier will effectively showcase Versace's potential and create a meaningful connection with the brand's rich history and unique aesthetics.
Addressing speculation about the potential exit of CEO Emmanuel Gintzburger, Bertelli assured that the collaboration is thriving. He also praised the previous owner, Capri Holdings, for its efforts in safeguarding the brand and focusing on the signature line.
Versace will leverage production and distribution synergies with the Prada Group, but the brand will maintain its distinct identity. Bertelli will continue his role as head of CSR and marketing director of the Prada Group.
At present, Versace is not scheduled to participate in the upcoming Milan Women's Fashion Week.
Sources indicate that Alaïa is in the early stages of searching for a successor, potentially focusing on prominent No. 2 designers. One such designer is Julian Dossena, the creative director of Rabanne since 2013, known for his exquisite and glamorous designs.
Prior to joining Alaïa in February 2021, Mulier was renowned for his work as Raf Simons' right-hand man at Jil Sander, Christian Dior, and Calvin Klein. His fashion career began after studying design and architecture at the Institut Supérieur d’Architecture Saint-Luc de Bruxelles, working at Simons' men's label in Antwerp.
Mulier's design expertise expanded into womenswear and accessories when Simons took the creative helm of Jil Sander. When Simons moved to New York as Calvin Klein's chief creative officer, Mulier became the creative director, overseeing the execution of Simons' vision for men's and women's ready-to-wear, bridge, and better apparel lines and accessories.
Mulier's runway bows with Simons were highly anticipated. He also managed all men's and women's design teams within the Calvin Klein brand under Simons' leadership.
Despite their professional separation, Mulier and Simons remain on friendly terms. Mulier frequently attends Prada shows in Milan, where Simons is co-creative director with Miuccia Prada, a connection that may have piqued Bertelli's interest.
At Alaïa, Mulier crafted a distinctive style, emphasizing craftsmanship, quality, and timelessness. His designs have generated buzz and momentum around the brand, attracting a younger and broader audience while retaining loyal customers. This success is evident in Alaïa's notable growth, with the brand more than doubling in size since Mulier's arrival.
The Prada Group's acquisition of Versace from Capri Holdings for 1.25 billion euros was announced in April, following Donatella Versace's appointment as chief brand ambassador and her departure from the creative director role after nearly three decades. Vitale, who succeeded her, exited Versace on December 12, having previously served as the ready-to-wear design director at Miu Miu.
Market sources revealed that Vitale was aware of the Prada Group's acquisition discussions since the end of the previous year, even before leaving Miu Miu. They also indicated that another designer, allegedly Mulier, was in the running for Versace, suggesting that his departure from Alaïa was imminent.
Sources suggest that the Prada Group's interest in Mulier was driven by his potential to lead the newly acquired brand. Meanwhile, the Prada Group's acquisition of Versace aims to restore the brand's image to a style more aligned with Gianni and Donatella Versace's vision, moving away from Vitale's influence.
Bertelli's debut collection in September received positive reviews for its colorful and audacious designs, but some observers found it perplexing. A source revealed that Bertelli has engaged in discussions with Donatella Versace and her daughter, Allegra, sharing a common goal of guiding a family company into the future.
Gianni Versace and Azzedine Alaïa, contemporaries in the 1980s and 1990s, shared a similar appreciation for empowering the female form and sensual, sculptural designs, enhanced by the presence of supermodels like Naomi Campbell. Interestingly, Campbell presented the CFDA's International Designer of the Year Award to Mulier in November.
